Sparkling wines: A way out for the Lazio region? An afternoon at Gotto d’Oro among previous and new labels

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Between those who talk about it and those who drink it, the fact that “bubbly” is on everyone’s lips is clear. So it’s perfectly normal that we should talk about it in Lazio, too. After all, there’s a tradition of sparkling wine near Rome known as “Romanella” (which, regrettably, is unenviable at the moment).

To launch a discussion around sparkling wine and provide a sneak peek of its new label, the Gotto d’Oro cooperative of Marino organized a public event on Friday, 17 March. Carlo Hausmann, director of the Agriculture Department of the Lazio Region, inaugurated the event with the president of Gotto d’Oro (one of the few remaining cooperatives in Lazio), Luigi Caporicci.

Several speakers were present at the event: Paolo Peira, consultant winemaker at Gotto d’Oro, who discussed the development strategies of enology of the future; Maurizio Taglioni, journalist, who presented a detailed analysis of the sparkling wines market in Italy and abroad; I (Fabio Ciarla) analyzed the contexts and opportunities of demand for sparkling wines; and Massimo Morassut and Noemi Bevilacqua, from CREA Viticoltura Enologia of Velletri, who detailed the technical development guidelines of quality sparkling wines from vineyard to cellar. What emerged was an extremely interesting outlook for the Lazio region, which offers valid production zones for sparkling wine, even in its most simple and immediate forms. At the same time, the market continues to demand this type of product, both in Italy and abroad. The tried and true Prosecco fad (that I represented graphically with “Ironic” t-shirts) continues to be a leader in creating new experiences in this sector: Asti Secco, for example, or Acqui Secco, or Orvieto, which will soon be produced as a sparkling DOC wine. The location of this significant event, Marino, enabled local wine producers to draw important conclusions regarding what, how, and when to plant in the vineyard, despite that fact that few people attended. A forward-looking vision is the first step in the profitability of any business; even more so in the case of sparkling wine, which requires longer organizational and production trajectories than other wines given the “natural” quality of its raw materials.

A forward-looking view that spurred Gotto d’Oro to develop a new production line called “Vinea Domini”, comprised of six labels of varietal still wine, and a seventh label dedicated to sweet wine. The label itself, graphically characteristic of a high-quality production, is as intriguing as the choice of grape varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier for white wines; Syrah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon for the reds; and Vermentino for the sweet wine. “We were moved by Pope Benedict XVI’s first words as pope”, said President Caporicci, “when he stated that he was just a humble servant in the Lord’s vineyard, Vinea Domini, in fact”.

The evening concluded with a tasting of the most recent Marino DOC (2016) and the Viognier Vinea Domini 2016.

Tasting notes follow:

Marino Superiore DOC 2016
Very bright, straw yellow with green highlights. Nose: yellow fruit tones, such as peach and banana, but also rose and apricot. Bolder in elegance than structure, balanced and fresh.
Score: 7/10

Viognier Vinea Domini IGT Lazio 2016
Color: bold straw yellow, verging toward golden, owing to partial maceration. Nose: herbaceous, with bold rosemary and then sage. Fresh in the mouth, but some additional ageing in the bottle would likely be beneficial.
Score: 7/10

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